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UIAA and Anchors in marine environment: a test to better choose

Anchors in marine environment, how to choose? The elements involved in the oxidation phenomena are so many, and so are the interests and the climber's fears.

After a large number of experiments, the UIAA (Union International of the Alpinism Associations) recommended to choose the anchors only after doing a specific test on the rock.

Daniele Arena  was one of the first Italian route setters to do that on the walls of San Vito lo Capo, helped by two skilled chemists (Luigi Filocamo and Letizia Cozzella). 

What this test is for, who should do it, how it should be done? 

This dossier is composed of a few short articles, in which we would try to give an as easy-to-use as possible answer, with the help of Emanuele Pellizzari.

For those who don't know him, Pellizzari is part of the team that carried out the corrosion research and developed the methodology of this test, now applied by Golias Radovan, part of the team of Tomas Prosek, headed by David Reeve.