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Valdesi - Via del Bunker

A short report on  Via del Bunker, also called Spigolo Valdesi. It's an easy (IV grade) multipitches trad route of Monte Pellegrino (Palermo), just a few minutes walk from the  Falesia dei Valdesi.  It's partially equipped, but easy to protect. Thus it has many repeats.

The view from the end is very nice: it's the Gulf of Mondello.

Valdesi - Vista dalla Via del Bunker
Valdesi - Vista dalla Via del Bunker
Mirko Cangiamila


The Via del Bunker, was established by L. Di Giorgio and G. Galluzzo on July 12, 1947. It's composed of three pitches, and it's 80m long.

The difficulties are quite low  (max IV+), and the rock is a good limestone, except for the last meters, where you must be careful.

The route is partially equipped with pitons, and easy to protect.

As the second pitch is quite short, it's usually joined to the third.   

the route is located on the North West Arête of the Mt. Pellegrino, and has a spectacular view on the Gulf of Mondello. The North West facing makes this route good for climbing during the mid-seasons.

The approach is very short: a few minutes walk from the parking spot. The climb down is in two (or three) abseils.

Bring some rings, small/medium nuts, small/medium cams, the helmet, quickdraws and carabiners. 

Via del Bunker
Via del Bunker




The start is at the bottom of the North West arête of the Mt. Pellegrino, in Palermo, some dozens of meters from the parking spot of the Falesia dei Valdesi. From the parking spot get on foot toward the North West arête, up to the Bunker. The route starts on the left of that Bunker, near the inscription "Spigolo Valdesi". You can see the first pitons from the bottom.

The climb down is by abseil. Once at the end of the route (on the top of Mt. Pellegrino) traverse to the right. After some meters, you find the first of three abseil points. These three abseil points are 25 meters from each other. Usually the third (last abseil) is joined with the second. Anyway, please remember that the third abseil point is a bit hidden, under a small roof.



Here the list of the pitches

P1, IV, 25m 

Belay2 pitons + 1 bolt

DescriptionClimb the arête. Bypass the small tree on the right, then go left, still along the arête, up to the belay on a terrace; 6 pitons

P2, IV+,33m 

Belay3 pitons

DescriptionClimb the slab on the right of the arête, up to the belay under a small roof. Such pitch is usually joined to the next one; 2 pitons

P3, IV+/-, 25m 

Belay: A ring around a spur

Description: Climb the slab up to the easy ramp at the end (where you must be careful because the rock is chossy); 1 Spit, 1 piton, 1 halfway belay



Luigi (not verified)

Via simpatica e didattica.
A destra passa la via di Roby Manfrè, Lacrime bianche, che ho ripulito e riattrezzato a fix diversi anni fa, chissa se è frequentata anche quella...

Wed, 03/06/2019 - 10:23

Ciao Luigi (Filocamo), grazie per avere riattrezzato Lacrime bianche. 

Wed, 03/06/2019 - 20:08

In reply to by Luigi (not verified)

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