Skip to main content

Gaeta: Sali, Tabacchi & Valori Bollati

Equiped in 1989 by Fabrizio Antonioli and Giorgio Mallucci, it is a route that develops more horizontally than vertically, but not less demanding than the other magnificent itineraries climbed on this large wall.

The technical difficulty does are not beyond 6b, but the engagement and the ability to read the itinerary are still considerable and, as for all the Gaeta's routes, there are no easy escapes, especially if you do not know the wall very well. It is a well equiped route with spits and fixes (almost all in good condition), but it requires good climbing skills and does not allow simple "helpers" to the buddy that in the long traverse must face the same risks of the team leader.

Try to avoid baths out of season :-)

The track of Sali, tabacchi & valori bollati
The track of Sali, tabacchi & valori bollati
Foto Fabrizio Antonioli



Driv to the small parking located on the right 100 meters before the Sanctuary of Montagna Spaccata.

Walk through the gate of the Sanctuary and turn immediately left leaving the door of the Church on the right and cross an iron gate. Follow the dirt road beyond the gate and at the seventh bend leave it to take a well-defined path through a gap in the wall that in about hundred meters leads to the square where there are the anchors to rappel along the Via dei Camini.

Down by the classic rappels along the VIA DEI CAMINI (First rappel of 40 meters, second of 25 m and third of 30 m, with two half ropes of 60 m you can skip the third) reaching a few meters from the sea the anchors with a fixed rope that cross horizontal to the right for five meters (II) on a small terrace with three glued bolts  from where various routes depart.

Doppia nella Via dei Camini Rappels along the Via dei Camini
First pitch of Helzapoppin
The long cross begin with the first pitch of Helzapoppin
Foto di Massimo Marconi

L1 24 m 6a - 8 fix e 1 piton. From the terrace climb up two meters and cross to the right, crossing the starts of LEONARDO after 7 m, then FORZAOTTANTA after 12 m and finally SUPERBI after 22 m. The cross follows washed-out horizontal cracks to be crossed horizontally for the first 15 m approximately, following fixes and some old rusty pitons (pay attention to some pitons hammered too high or too low due to a path error). The most difficult section (last 7-8 m) is initially uphill, attention after the fifth protection not to aim high at the anchors of SUPERBI (on 3 fix) but continue to traverse horizontally to the right slightly downhill protected by a stainless steel blade nail until the belay on two fixes and an old spit in an niche at the base of a dihedral-chimney.

L2 30 m 6a - 6 anchors. From the belay circunvent horizontally an edge, climb down a meter to an old spit and then continue by the same crack, using two stainless fixes in sequence and continuing to cross to where the wall curve. Then climb down to a little edge (up to here 6a). Pass two old paired bolts with a new fix next to it and reach a niche, steps up to a belay on a pulpit with two bolts and fix (all with quick links) (it is advisable to bring one to leave).

Uscita dall'Ultimo traverso Exit from the last traverse.

L3 It is possible to rappel for 10 m or climb down (4b exposed and unprotected) up to a small terrace to the right of the vertical of the belay (fix to belay). From here it is advisable to go on without rope up tu S6.

L4 40 m of II possibly to be protected. Cross on the the big stones on the right for 7 meters (tunnels) then descend for 4 meters in the first chimney you meet and continue to cross on ledge to the right until you reach a terraced area where you use the first belay of STRAPIOMBANDO TOGETHER with two fixes.

L5 Coil the rope and walk for about 20 meters until the last terrace before a sharp carving. Here too there is a belay with fix inox.

First vertical pitch
First vertical pitch

L6 25 m 5a - spit and fix. From the terrace descend vertically into the little slimy carving (2 bolts, 5a) up to one meter from the sea (there is currently a fixed rope) and then cross with a large split to reach a black carved rock and then large terraces. Go up on the terraces pointing to the edge of the pillar. Two move of 4a, with two fixes, lead to the belay on the edge of the pillar. Pay attention to the tension of the ropes to prevent them from ending up in the water!

L7 55 m 4b - 2 fixes and tunnels. Climb on articulated wall (tunnels) to the left of the pillar for about 20 meters with difficulty of III and much gravel, up to the last vertical wall with two fixes that by excellent holds allows you to reach a large terrace where there is the belay with two fixes with hang and ring.

L8 25 m 6a+ - 9 fix. The most beautiful pitch of the route, wins a red wall that is overhanging but jugged. Engaging due to the continuity but superb for the exposition. Keeping a little to the left of the protections there are excellent rests. At the end of the wall reach the terrace with fine gravel where is the belay with 3 new fixes (two with rings).

L9 20 m 5c - Tunnels and 3 fixes. The original route climb the gully for only 3 meters and then left again (old colored spit - in very bad condition). From here with a nice movement (6a +) it is possible to get back on the wall - old cords - to get to the highly articulated red concretions. Alternatively, go up the canal for about 15 m, small hidden hourglasses (4c, 3 fixes), and at the end of the gully cross to the left (fix) pointing to red concretions very articulated and protruding, with a tunnel. Belay with two fixes.

L10 25 m 6b - 8 fix. Enter with some difficulty in a slab (broken spit) and climb slightly diagonally to the left. At the end of the slab again, an edge is circumvented to the left and a last vertical wall leads with 3 fixes to the exit on the edge of the cliff where is the belay with fixes and chain.

The last two pitchs are concatenable (attention to frictions).

Tiro Chiave Crux pitch
Passo chiave dell'ultimo tiro Crux of the last pitch


Alessandro Enrico (not verified)

Via veramente bella il traverso super protetto e a tratti reso viscido dalla salsedine non banale poi la via va un po' cercata non di facile intuizione ci si deve calare o disarrampicare in un canalino poi ancora traversare e scendere con l'aiuto di corda fissa alla fine della corda traversare ancora 30 metri a pochi centimetri dal mare da qui
iniziano tre tiri meravigliosi spigolo strapiombo e placca attenzione ad 1/3 di tiro di deve piegare a dx li placca delicata passaggi di 6b pieno

Tue, 12/11/2018 - 07:10

Leave a comment

Plain text

  • No HTML tags allowed.
  • Lines and paragraphs break automatically.
  • Web page addresses and email addresses turn into links automatically.