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Valgiubola, Hot Spot


Neil Agostinelli on Hot Spot in Valgiubola
Neil Agostinelli on Hot Spot in Valgiubola
ar. Neil Agostinelli

We are all much more limited in the movements, at this time. Now, more than ever, we find us to make attempts to projects that we abandoned when a wider range of routes was available. Here is the video of the first ascent of Hot Spot, a route set by me in 1996-1997  with glue-in bolts, that I've never sent. As a matter of fact, such was the abundance of rock at that time. It was a long time and Hot Spot was left without a grade. It was harder than the nearby Loretos (a benchmark  7c of the crag), but how much harder it was, was not yet determined.

For this reason and for the total abandonment of this crag (due to the furious polemics involving many lines) the route was forgotten. If it weren't for this bloody Virus, and for the fact that  Neil Agostinelli has already sent all the routes up to 8c of our area, Hot Spot would probably be left without a grade for several more years.

After the first attempts, Neil felt like the ascent was feasible. In fact, after a good brush-up, Hot Spot was sent, with a proposed grade ranging from 7c+ and 8a.

Hot spot is different from all the other routes of Valgiubola. It has a really demanding start culminating in a crux that doesn't give you plenty of time to think. 

Now Neil is on another old abandoned project, of which all we know is the name "Andrà tutto bene", and in the meantime, he's tidying up the base of the wall, together with other locals. 

Despite the past polemics on the chipped and "adjusted" holds (very few in the case of the route in question), Valgiubola is reliving a period of renovating. No one, today, would ever "enhance" a whole route from beginning to end, but 30 years ago it was different. It was different everywhere, both in Italy and abroad. Leave Valgiubola Alta abandoned wouldn't help us anyway. So, instead, for good or ill, there's a memory and a trace of a different historical moment. A lesson. A not fine page in our history, but still a page to read to understand. 




Ringrazio Neil per avermi fornito il video integrale della prima libera che poi ho rielaborato in maniera molto semplice. Prendetelo come documento storico :-)

Wed, 05/06/2020 - 16:47

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