Description

The crag of Canne d’Organo is surrounded by a characteristic and charming landscape: it seems to be on a mountain, but at a short distance from the sea! The climbing style is various: there are technical slab and demanding overhangs, of low and medium level.

The cliff offers some interesting multipitches routes too, of low and low/medium level, in a stunning setting. Among these, there is an easy trad climbing route (IV), that is one of the most beautiful easy trad routes of the Mediterranean area. The other ones have the hardest pitches equipped with expansion bolts, and the easiest ones equipped for the trad climbing (ropes and some pitons).

The crag has been gardened and re-equipped (where necessary) by the Italian Alpin Club of Grosseto. The paths into the wood, instead, and the fixed ropes have bees set by the mountaineering guide Eraldo Meraldi, which has opened an interesting sport climbing multipitches too, along with the path to climb down from the other ones.  Even if the hardest pitches of these routes are equipped with expansion bolts, and overlooking the sea, the rock wall has mountaineering features, thus it is not recommended for beginners.  This is also the reason why for both the single-double pitches areas and the multipitches area it’s recommended the use of the helmet.

Approach

Take the Aurelia road (E80) and exit at Orbetello. Continue following the signs to Porto Ercole. Once at the entrance of Porto Ercole (that is at the sign “PORTO ERCOLE”), take the Via tramontana road, and turn left at the roundabout. Continue up to “Forte Stella”, then go downhill. Once at a junction, turn right and continue up to a widening, with some rubbish containers. The rock wall is well visible on the right. Park your car and continue on foot.