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Something about Fosso dell'Eremo

Description

Fosso dell’Eremo is a beautiful crag immersed in the valley of the namesake valley, so called because of the ruined an ancient heritage.

The limestone rock walls stand along a creek, in a n enchanting and bucolic place, promoted and equipped in 1998 by Sandro Angelini & Co.

Roberto Fantozzi too set here some routes, in the “Grottone” area (Grottone = Big Cave).

The routes are long and of various difficulties, so that any kind of climbers can have fun here. The climbing style is various, because the walls are slightly inclined, vertical or overhanging (more or less overhanging in the Muro Giallo area, and very overhanging in the Grottone area).

The limestone is excellent and very carved: the overhangs offer various holds, long tufas, and concretions, whereas the grey compact slabs offer crimps and cracks.

The creek is very close, the place is in shadow, and the space under the routes is almost everywhere comfortable, thus this crag is very attended during the summer, even from families with children.

But this crag is good for climbing even during the mid seasons because some areas are sunny during a part of the day.

The bolting is excellent and a 70m rope and 16 quickdraw are needed.



Approach

From the East coast (Adriatico sea), take the highway Roma-Fano (Flaminia road) and exit at Acqualagna, direction Piobbico - Città di Castello. Then, after about 13 km (more or less 2 km before the town of Piobbico) look for an evident parking spot on the right side of the road, shortly before a bridge, and a dirty road with the sign “Fosso dell’Eremo” on the other side of the road.

From Tuscany or Northern Umbria, go toward the town of Città di Castello, then take the SP257 road, cross the pass of Bocca Serriola, pass the towns of Apecchio and Piobbico, up to an evident parking spot on the left side of the road, and a dirty road with the sign “Fosso dell’Eremo” on the other side of the road.