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Capo Cozzo Crag, Southern Crag

Route information for Southern Crag of Calabria's Capo Cozzo Crag

Southern Crag, Capo Cozzo Crag
Southern Crag

In the Summer of 2019, I was fortunate enough to finally get to climb the two main rockfaces I have been watching in the Calabria region of Italy.

These two faces are the opposite sides of a rocky outcrop I have named "Capo Cozzo Crag."

Below is the route information for the five climbs I have established on Capo Cozzo's "Southern Crag." 

Each of these routes were established on relatively loose rock with minimal gear, and so I hope to return with more gear and belayers to better establish these routes and more to come.

Southern Crag, Capo Cozzo Crag
Southern Crag Routes

 1. Bolt the Ghost (S / IV)

Start left of the archway. Follow the obvious fissure almost straight upwards, with some light clambering where route levels out slightly in the middle. Face the wall of the main body of rock to your right. Some “hands & knees” climbing to get around outward-jutting sections. Finishing above the four knuckle-shaped section.


2. Hexual Tension (VS / V)

Start at the bottom right wall leading into the arch. Continue up the major crack, following the line upwards left. Some larger cracks along this route well suited to hexcentrics. As vegetation thickens, climb around bulge to the left, finishing slightly left of the centre of the arch.

Southern Crag, Cap Cozzo Crag
Southern Crag Routes

3. Jungle Cats (HS / IV+)

Using the same starting point as “Hexual Tension”, ascend further right, around the small arete to follow the main fissure. At the overgrown indent, climb right, around a slight bulge, traversing right into the corner with a far right wall.


4. Rubble Maker (S / IV)

Starting above the scree and rubble on the right slab, climb leftwards and ascend in an almost “S” shape. Finishing left above the shrubbery near top of arch.


5. Tequila Mockingbird (HS / IV+)

Starting on the inside face of the arch's right wall, use good footwork and finger placement to ascend using the smaller fissures up the arete. Just above the main fissure used in “Hexual Tension”, climb diagonally right passed the vegetation, finishing between the two cactus patches to the right.

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