The dean of our community presents us.
A school class in a climbing spot
Ar. Sergio Brun
Ar. Sergio Brun
As a senior member of the Climbing Spot Factory community, I got the job to introduce you the web site. This task is for me, because in my life has gone through all the evolution steps of climbing in Central Italy.
At the beginning, with improbable and inadequate equipment, and no experience, then the nailing of the first cliff of Umbria, Pale, where we needed a telescope to see the first one nail of a street and the protections, when they were there, were made more or less good, for not talking about the stops.
Finally, the total tying-up (re-sanding) of the site, which I personally made with certified stainless fix, positioned in such a way as to minimize the risks impact on the ledges. All lived at the way of Central Italy, that is not pioneers absolute, but going to the wheel after the openers of the great crags of the North; without masters, but only following the "word of mouth", copying and emulating copying and emulating what was coming fortunately to know.
Free solo on "La luce", 1991
I lived this chronic difficulty in finding technical information, so I have decided to contribute to the training project of an IT platform that has like purpose of the disclosure of information
from authoritative sources on news, materials, techniques and safety - to benefit both – the climbers and of the nailers.
All members of this group are people well known in the environment, all involved in maintenance or in the climbing site equipment, which appear with name and surname, and are goods recognized landmarks in the places of which they deal with.
We will update you on crags and new routes, or re-equipped; we will talk about security, of
materials. We will also give visibility to our sponsors, that is, to those who support us for
the purchase of equipment. We will tell some stories, some real ones, some invented.
We will inform you of important ascents and we will also speak of grade.
Talking about grade is a bit like talking about money.
Money in life serves, if only for know what kind of things can be done. It's something quite sensible to worry about the state of their finances and try to have always a good availability. But fixate yourself on the subject and live according to money is wrong and counterproductive: it generates an inability to enjoy what one has and therefore a structural dissatisfaction.
That's it also for the degree. We promise to touch the subject with due sensitivity and attention, without going into endless discussions. The tone we will use will be medium, a bit serious, and a little ironic. We will leave the emphasis on narratives of the lives of saints and rhetoric hypocrite to the various sacristies. If really we would like to emphasize some accomplishment we will be laconic; if we really are angry we will be ironic and paradoxical - and it will happen to us get angry, since we give voice to many people who usually have little.
On the Lyskamm ridge
And now? since we have said to do not want to be hypocrites, two things remain to be specified about "About Us".
We are .... nailers, people who stand before a rock wall, sees a route and it marks planting nails in the stone, with hard and more durable material on which we can leave marks.
Forever, anyone draws a mark on one rock feels like making a magical gesture. Track
a route, indicates a path to the others. Anyone follows signs on the rock, to his time, feels like starting a path, too interior, challenge, improvement or search. Even the most hardened climber on plastic, the most brutal puller of lists of wood in the gym, when facing a way up rock feels that something changes compared to the gym. It's not just the wind, it's not just the height, it's not just the smell of the air - is that: in front of a rock wall the most instinctive part of the brain takes a controlling share (with results that are not always splendid, maybe, especially if it is usually repressed).
So climbers feel they are all part of a community: because they all share a research experience - each with his own means, each with his own sensitivity, each with his own capacity for perception.
Everyone is, in his own way, a creative, one who came out of the anonymous crowd to start his journey.
In this site we will try to represent this creative side.
Next to the openers of occasionally climbers will appear they paint, they photograph, they sculpt, they write, they sound.
All people who get creates. All people who leave the daily route life and accept the risk of getting lost following some way
Many times and in many places I was lost!
I want to close by saying all these adventurous people who get lost along the way is an important experience. The most important thing is “leave marks”.
Leave beautiful and nice signs, which invite people to come again, to find you, to visit you, or at least allow you same as being able to return.
Commenti
Grande Sergio!!! Non potevi usare parole più belle e veritiere per descrivere il mondo della scalata.
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