Terni - Falesia della Rocca

Ermanno Busetti introduces one of the latest Umbrian climbing spots: the Falesia della Rocca.

Established a few years ago by Alessandro Quadriglia with 12mm certified stainless steel expansion bolts, this crag offers a dozen of nice routes excellent rough limestone and a magnificent view on the city of Terni and on the Mt. Terminillo, at the price of a neither short nor easy approach.
Falesia della Rocca, Francesca Ajò
Francesca Ajò on the 6-th route (5c/5c+)
Carmela Malomo

 

 

Driving on the SS675 road to the crags of Ferentillo or Pale, you can see three triangular rocky structures located near the city of Terni, on the slopes of the Martani Mountains. More precisely, these are three systems of rock walls and ridges, with a scattered Mediterranean scrub.

On the first of these structures there are the climbing spots of Sant'Andrea and Sant'Erasmo [coming soon on ClimbAdvisor, ed]. The second one, at now, doesn't have any climbing spot. On the third structure there is the Falesia della Rocca.

The road to this place exit from the city of Terni and crosses a beautiful olive grove, going up to a widening, where you can park our vehicle. Then, a 25 minutes steep and uneven path arrives at the South-faced rock wall.

Terminillo dalla Falesia della Rocca
The snow-capped Mt. Terminillo from Falesia della Rocca
Carmela Malomo

The rock wall offers 12 routes, from 5b/c to 6b+, some of which more than 20m in length.

It's an understatement to say that the rock is good. The rock is amongst the best in Italy, particularly on the vertical grey walls. Moreover, it's very rough, even if not sharp.

Though there are few drawbacks: some big rocks stacked on the ledge of the route n.10 and at the end of the route n.5

The bolting of the route n.10 (left variant) should be reviewed, in my opinion.

Falesia della Rocca
Francesca Ajò on the Falesia della Rocca rock wall
Carmela Malomo

The climbing spot offers two sport climbing multipitches routes too, and an interesting network of paths getting to the remains of an ancient fortification.

Ideal climbing season:

  1. This crag is decidedly good for winter climbing. It's South-East faced and goes in shadow only late in the afternoon.
  2. The rock wall is not sheltered by the northerly wind.

Let's end this short article with the crux sequence of the Senza Nome 8 (6b+), one of the most beautiful routes of Falesia della Rocca.

  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 1/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 1/12
  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 2/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 2/12
  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 3/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 3/12
  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 4/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 4/12
  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 5/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 5/12
  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 6/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 6/12
  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 7/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 7/12
  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 8/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 8/12
  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 9/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 9/12
  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 10/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 10/12
  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 11/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 11/12
  • Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 12/12
    Maurizio Placidi on No Name 8 (6b+) 12/12

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