Eros-ione is a new sport multipitches route of the Canne d'Organo crag.
Daniele Patania gives a short description of this route, established by the mountain guide Eraldo Meraldi.
Eros-ione is a new sport multipitches route of the Canne d'Organo crag.
Daniele Patania gives a short description of this route, established by the mountain guide Eraldo Meraldi.
Eros-ione is a fully equipped multipitches route, established by the mountain guide Eraldo Meraldi on August 15, 2014.
It's located on the small rocky spur on the left of the Spigolo delle Canne d'Organo (Canne d'Organo Arête), 30 meters from the downward path from the top of this arête.
It's 47 meters long and is composed of three pitches, that can be joined.
The rock is a beautiful carved limestone.
The view is breath-taking: you can see both the sea and the coast of the Argentario promontory and the majestic mountain Canne d'Organo arête.
The most suitable approach to Eros-ione is from one of the multipitches routes that climb the arête, such as the Spigolo delle Canne d'Organo. One at the top, follow the evident track. This track first traverses along the ridge, then goes downhill into the valley, and enters into the wood, up to a sequence of fixed ropes.
Climb down these fixed ropes for few dozens of meters, looking for another fixed rope that traverses on the left. It's located about 30m after the first fixed rope. Follow this traversing rope, then continue along a traversing track, up to the rock spur named "Gendarme".
The climb down from Eos-ione is by one abseil from the end of the route up to its start (47m). Then follow the track that traverses on the right, up to the downhill fixed ropes which go toward the start of the Spigolo route (wearing the harness and the helmet!!).
Then go back to the car.
Bring normal mountaineering equipment and helmet.
Here the list of the pitches
Belay: Fix and chain
Description: Nice bulged slab
Belay: Fix and chain
Description: Vertical and inclined wall
Belay: Fix and chain
Description: Inclined wall
I would close this brief report with a short video of the mountain guide Eraldo Meraldi, showing the rock wall, some moves, and the stunning view.
Leave a comment